To experience the region's mountain culture firsthand, Marta Peruga, who works in Vielha's tourist information office, recommended visiting the village of Bagergue, which, at an altitude of 1,424m, is the highest village in Catalonia. "Get off the bus in Salardu," she told me. "Then take the walking trail to Bagergue. It's a beautiful walk, even in the snow, and at the top you can try the cheese!"

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