He says the smell, which occurs as the ghee cooks with the mastic and mahlab, is "like something being caramelised, but there's nothing being caramelised". There's really no replacement for mastic's flavour in baking, and as Kattan said, it's "an uncompromising one". "You can use orange blossom or rose petal water, but it's not the same thing. Mastic has a sweet, earthy flavour – I cannot describe it," he said. "If you played with pine trees when you were younger, that little sap that would seep out when it's cut, that's what it tastes like."

 

 

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