I saw that for myself at Baati Chokha, a fine-dining establishment specialising in Purvanchali (Bihar and Eastern Uttar Pradesh) and North Indian cuisine, located in Salt Lake, Kolkata's preeminent IT hub. On that weekday night at around 22:00, most of the tables were occupied by young office workers. At a table near me, Deepika – an employee at an infotainment firm in the neighbourhood – was fiddling with her phone and taking small, occasional helpings of litti chokha, artfully plated in front of her.